While working as a tour leader in Lycia, Turkey, I’d often get asked: ‘What’s so special about this ancient site?’ Invariably I’d mention ‘the theatre’ somewhere in my spiel, to which I heard muttered on several occasions "Oh, ABT for a change" or, in its entirety, "Another Bloody Theatre".
Theatres were an essential component to ancient cities, so there is no escaping them. The ten sites included on this list (in alphabetical order) have got unique features, be it their location, rock tombs, or history, which distract you from the ABT factor.
Arykanda (or Arycanda)
One of the oldest of the Lycian cities, Arykanda was renowned for its fun-loving, and hence debt-ridden, citizens. Its location is breathtaking and as it’s situated on a steep, south-facing hillside, the site is on a series of terraces. Coins found here date back to the 5th Century BC and, as well as ABT, some of the more interesting features of this magnificent city include one of the largest Lycian bath complexes, monumental kings' temple tombs, and a small stadium on the top terrace.
Kaunus (or Caunus)
The main attraction of this site is getting there as it involves a boat trip from Dalyan. Also some of the excavations have been carried out using labour from the minimum security prison at Dalaman.
Although its origins are Carian, dating back to the 9th Century BC, it has got the Lycian cultural traits in the form of nearby rock tombs. There is amish-mash of buildings including ABT, Roman baths, a Byzantine Basilica and an ancient Doric temple.
You can continue your boat trip to the nearby Iztuzu beach which is home to the protected loggerhead turtles.
Kekova-Simena
It’s easy to see why Alexander the Great couldn’t conquer this city
Although not particularly vast,Kekova-Simena is unusual in that an earthquake has split the site, leaving some ruins underwater and semi-submerged Lycian tombs. Boat trips will take you to see the ruins, or you can paddle there in a kayak. The climb to the ruined castle, which includes ABT, on the mainland is steep, but you will be rewarded with views of this beautiful area.Letoon
This site, dedicated to Lycian goddess Leto, was the official religious sanctuary of the Lycian Federation and later became a centre for Christian worship. There are three temples plus a nymphaeum which is connected to a sacred spring. Full of terrapins and frogs, some say they are shepherds transformed by Leto’s vengeance. The remains of the Byzantine church have some mosaics, but many have been removed or are covered now.
Myra
ABT in this site is impressive and it also has a number of reasonably accessible Lycian rock tombs, but much of the site is unexcavated. There are also a number of interesting carved stone masks. Its name is thought to be derived from the Greek word for myrrh and its main claim to fame is its associations with Saint Nicholas, aka Santa Claus. Myra played an important part in the Lycian Federation, although records don’t mention the city before the first century.
As an aside, the area is renowned for its oranges so don’t bypass the chance of having some freshly squeezed juice when they are in season in the nearby cafes.
Olympos
Although the ruins are minimal, this idyllically-located site is on the banks of an oleander and fig-shaded stream which is teaming with wildlife and is a good place for bird watchers. It is also home to rare butterflies. ABT is tucked away in the undergrowth plus there are fortifications and an aqueduct. The main attraction is the nearby Chimaera (or Chimera), a rock with naturally forming flames leaping from the earth which are best viewed at dusk.
Patara
Most of this site remains unexcavated, but its attraction is its location. Situated just a 15 minute stroll from one of Turkey’s most beautiful beaches, this once wealthy city was one of the main six cities of Lycia. An impressive first century AD Roman gateway marks the entrance, and it also has one of the world’s oldest lighthouses.
As one of the larger Anatolian ABTs, it was buried by sand up until a few years ago and was believed to have been crowned with a Dionysus temple.
Pinara
The most interesting feature of Pinara is the vast number of tombs in the nearby cliffs, which resemble ‘swiss cheese’. It’s worth a visit just to see the Royal Tomb which has unique carvings. The acropolis is overgrown and there are rather nice views from the well preserved ABT.
Termessos
Although its origins are Psidian, Termessos, 30km north of Antalyia is in Lycia. It deserves a mention purely because of its location in a stunning National Park - and because it is my favourite site.
It’s a steep walk to the ruins, so it’s easy to see why Alexander the Great couldn’t conquer this city. Once at the top you are rewarded with breathtaking views, particularly from ABT. Making you feel like a real explorer, vegetation has begun to encroach over the remains, which include cisterns and an agora, but the most impressive part is the necropolis; destroyed in the earthquake it resembles something out of Dante’s Infernowith sargophogi tumbling down the hillside.
Xanthos
The history of Xanthos earns it a place on this list. Twice in its history the inhabitants committed suicide by burning the city rather than being conquered. Important finds include the Xanthian obelisk and the ‘Harpy Tomb’.The original Harpy Tomb is in the British Museum, but there is a reasonable replica in its place. As well as ABT there are some mosaics in the Byzantine basilica and a well preserved Byzantine monastery.
Lycia has over 60 sites, so apologies if I've missed your favourite.... I had trouble whittling the list down to ten! Let me know in the comments box below if you think I've missed a major site.
To discover these and more, start earning points in ourAncient World in London series, and you could be having your own tour of Lycian sites... as part of a fabulous holiday for two in Fethiye, in Turkey. There are bonus points up for grabs this week, so start exploring now for the chance to win the grand prize!
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